Fast fashion "secondary line rescue plan" has not been effective: high speed is still a conflict

(Original title: Fast Fashion "Deputy Line Rescue Plan" has not achieved results)

H&M, Uniqlo, GAP... These fast fashion fashion giants are now experiencing pressures of declining performance. “Cheap”, “Imitation of big names” and “quality is worrying” have also become the footnotes of the outside world. However, some fast fashion brands have recently introduced their relatively high-end product lines into the Chinese market, and have opened up the level with the popular product line, only in some stores. The fast fashion brands that have been questioned are trying to change in the Chinese market in this way, attracting different levels of consumer groups, but based on the basic ideas of cost control, the vice line still has incomprehensible positioning conflicts with these fast fashion brands. .

High-end product line

Recently, the Beijing Business Daily reporter found that the fast fashion brand Uniqlo from Japan quietly launched the “Uniqlo U Series” in the brand stores of Sanlitun and Xidan Joy City in Beijing. Unlike the products in general stores, the U-series uses "advanced customization" as a promotional point and does not promote the full range of products to all stores. The reporter learned from the relevant person in charge of Uniqlo that in June this year, Uniqlo hired Hermès' former creative director Christophe Lemaire as the artistic director of the Uniqlo Paris R&D Center. The U-series design was also completed by a 15-person design team led by Christophe Lemaire. .

The Beijing Business Daily reporter learned that at present, the U series contains 87 sweaters, jackets, dresses and jackets. However, the complete series of products are only launched in 26 key stores and official websites nationwide, and other stores only have some products. In the industry view, the way this creative item is supplied in some stores is very hungry. At present, Uniqlo has more than 500 stores in the Greater China market.

Coincidentally, in addition to Uniqlo, another fast fashion brand H&M's more innovative H&M Studio series is also available. This year, H&M has also expanded this line of products and launched children's clothing. Studio's release range is narrower than Uniqlo. The Beijing Business Daily reporter found that the Studio Fall/Winter collection that H&M just released can only be purchased at seven domestic stores.

In terms of price point, because of the better material selection and more design sense, these niche series products of the fast fashion brand are usually slightly more expensive than the basic models of the popular online. For example, the men's jacket on H&M's official website is priced at around 399 yuan, and in the Studio series of designer "blessing", men's jackets can be sold for 799 yuan.

Diverting consumers

In the industry's view, the distinction between the Volkswagen line product and the design series helps to evoke consumers who are “exhaustively tired” of the brand's existing design style, with the aim of stimulating new purchases. Zhao Pei, an expert in the apparel industry, pointed out that on the one hand, fast fashion brands are promoting a new argument to consumers: fast fashion brands that value cost can also make garments with design and durability. On the other hand, this hunger marketing approach can capture more levels of consumer groups for fast fashion brands, especially those who seek quality, design and unique attributes.

In fact, Uniqlo has already tasted the sweetness with the “design”. Before Christophe Lemaire did not join Uniqlo, in October 2015, Uniqlo had partnered with the designer to launch the joint name “UNIQLO AND LEMAIRE”, thanks to the latter’s reputation, which was launched in China three minutes later. sold out. “The series with the former Hermès design director” and “The design of Hermès, the price of Uniqlo” became the hotspot of Uniqlo on Weibo for some time.

Although hunger marketing has created a hot scene in the short term, it is difficult to maintain long-term operations. Zhao Pei pointed out that the sub-line series launched by the fast fashion brand often has specific themes and concepts. For example, this year's H&M Studio's Spring/Summer collection launched a series of products under the theme of “Travel”. But how to ensure that these specific topics attract consumers is a problem.

In addition, although the secondary line series may create a peak in purchases in the short term, this type of sales concentrated in a single store also has a purchase barrier for consumers. “The vast majority of consumers don’t want to buy a piece of clothing and go to a store that is far away to buy. The sub-line series on the e-commerce platform often loses its uniqueness because it is mixed with the popular line products. ."

Niche series is not a climate

In 2002, Uniqlo entered the Chinese market and opened the upsurge of fast fashion brands. In 2006, fast fashion brands such as Zara, H&M, and C&A have “attacked” the major stores in China's large and medium-sized cities with the momentum of the wind. Cost-effective, faster product updates have become a common feature of these brands. But since last year, the fast-moving "speed sequelae" has begun to be exposed, and consumers have gradually become tired of the so-called fast fashion consumer cycle: buying cheap clothes - discarding clean - buy again.

Zhao Pei pointed out that for the cheap clothing brand, this "fast" positioning has begun to show drawbacks. This year, the growth rate of H&M and Uniqlo in China has slowed down noticeably. In this state, going to the high end seems to be a necessary path. By opening up a series of secondary lines with higher prices and higher design and quality, fast fashion brands are trying to get out of the cheap and fast frame and develop higher-level markets.

However, this expansion is still far from the climate. In the eyes of the industry, the development of the secondary line products is still at the stage of testing the water for the fast fashion brands. Zhao Pei pointed out that, in fact, since it has achieved good sales results, fast fashion brands can open boutique counters in ordinary stores to supply these high-priced sub-line products, or to develop independent franchise stores. The reason why they have not done so is that they are still subject to their own positioning. Based on the factors of cost control, they are reluctant to supply these products that cost more quality fabrics and design costs.

This year, the performance of fast fashion brands has seen a collective shrinkage. According to the financial report released by H&M, the Group's gross profit margin in the third quarter fell by 190 basis points to 54%, compared with 55.9% in the same period last year. In the Chinese market, H&M created an 82% sales growth in 2007, but this figure has fallen to 16% last year. In the fiscal year 2016, Uniqlo’s operating profit in the overseas market also showed a 13.7% decline.

Zhao Pei pointed out that the fast-fashion brand is still the price advantage, that is, "first-class design, second-rate fabric, third-rate price", specific sub-line products may involve hiring additional stars for endorsement, which is for brands It is also a relatively large expense. It also conflicts with the positioning of the brand itself, which is why fast fashion brands have not vigorously developed the sub-line products.

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This article Source: Beijing Daily Author: Sun Qi Xiang Wang Xiaoli Editor: Guo Rui Super _NF2003

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